
I enjoyed teaching fabric/textile analysis and characteristics for over 30 years as a college professor.
At drkrinfabricprof.com, my goal is to share my years of fabric/textile knowledge with craftspersons, sewists, and independent designers. Learn more about my background in my first blog post.
How you can use this site: information about the 4 fabric variables that make a fabric are included in the sections. You can download PDFs, 3-hole punch pages & make your own fabric book. Add swatches if you like. The PDFs are free for you.
This "short course" will take you through the 4 variables of the Fabric Equation:
Fiber + Yarn + Structure + Finish = Fabric
Due to commitments over the next weeks, I will not be responding to questions.
Fabrics are made up of 4 variables. Consider ALL 4 variables in the equation when selecting a fabric.
What are your requirements when selecting a fabric for something you are making?
Natural fibers: (like the old 20 questions game--is it animal, vegetable, or mineral (& metalllic)?:
Protein (animal): wool, silk, etc.
Cellulosic (vegetable/plant based): cotton, flax, etc.
Mineral or Metallic: Fiberglas (trade name), extruded metal fibers.
Manufactured fibers:
Regenerated: from a natural material that is manipulated--typically a cellulosic: rayon, lyocell (Tencel trade name), etc.
Synthetic: nylon, polyester, acrylic, olefin, spandex (Lycra tradename), etc.
The US Federal Trade Commission (FTC) regulates textile product fiber labeling. The rules are described in detail in the Textile Fiber Products Labeling Act (TFPIA). Find a link to the document in the section on Regenerated Fibers. Find a "short guide" in the PDF below. The FTC also requires care labels for apparel & certain piece goods. Find a "short guide" & care label symbols PDF below.
Protein fibers include wool, specialty hair, and silk. In the next 2 sections you will find downloadable PDFs: one section on wool and specialty hair fibers and a section on silk.
The downloadable PDFs describe wool & specialty hair fibers: source, types, appearance and performance. And silk (cultivated, wild, dupioni & Thai silk) including source, types, appearance & performance.

Cellulosic fibers include cotton (the major commercial fiber) and other cellulosics including, flax and hemp. In the next 2 sections you will find downloadable PDFs: one section on cotton and another on the minor cellulosics.
Originally invented to replace unreliable natural fiber production. Inspiration was taken from the silkworm which digests plant materials into a syrupy solution which is forced through a hole in the silkworm's "snout." It took many years for humans to figure out how to mimic this process: 1. dissolving plant materials into a solution called "dope", extruding the dope through a spinneret (looks like a shower head) and solidifying the extruded dope. The diameter & shape of a fiber can be controlled by changing the size & shape of the spinneret opening. The fiber can be a long filament or chopped into short staple fibers.

Synthetic Fibers (pdf)
DownloadThe downloadable PDFs describe thermoplastic fibers: nylon & polyester, acrylic, modacrylic, & olefin. Nylon was the first synthetic fiber revolutionizing how fibers are produced and making new fabric characteristics possible.
Polyester was the next synthetic. What seemed to be miracle fibers has also presented negative effects on the environment, presenting challenges to industry and to designers.
The 3 main fabric structures are: woven, knit, non-woven. This section includes PDFs on 1) Intro to Woven Fabrics & Plain Weave, 2)Twill Weave & Satin Weave, 3) Pile Weave & Double Weave, 4) Leno Weave, Figure Weave, Slack Tension Weave & Surface Weave
The 3 main fabric structures are: woven, knit, non-woven. This section includes PDFs on non-woven structures
Structures- non-woven (pdf)
DownloadFor purposes of this short course, we will separate finishes into two categories: aesthetic (appearance) and performance.
Files coming soon.
Fiber + Yarn + Structure + Finish = Fabric
1 What are your requirements when purchasing a fabric? (pdf)
DownloadI hope you find the information on this site useful for your creative projects.
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